Near Death In Scotland… Living In The Tub… Rolling
Hills To Which There Seems No End…
The van is large
and ungainly, hardly a pretty sight, a hulking mass on wheels which rolls and
tumbles along tiny Scottish roadways, slapping wayward tree limbs with wide,
gawky rear-vision mirrors. They call it Tub, and we live in it. It’s our home
for a few days, days spent wandering and wondering, a life on the road as free
as the hills we whip by that seem to roll on forever.
The road is, he
says, one of the most picturesque in Europe, and so we take a left turn and
it’s narrow, ‘passing areas’ dotted every few hundred metres, barely even a
line on the map, but stretching off into the hills like it has no end, and we,
being carefree, take it with no thought other than to reach the other side
where we’ll make camp, taking it as it comes.
We bowl along at a
cracking pace, occasionally pulling to the side to let another car pass,
admiring the sweeping countryside, a picturesque road indeed until we happen
upon a series of steeply angled (at least 80 degrees, I’d wager) hairpin turns
which we look to navigate in second gear – folly, as it turns out, and so we
roll backward, stalled, down an almost vertical turn, hearts beating out of
chests, hoping against hope that no one is coming toward us along this
treacherous mountain pass – picturesque be damned, I mutter to myself as I lose
the clutch and struggle to find first gear amongst a cloud of smoke which I
fear heralds the ultimate demise of The Tub, our faithful travelling companion.
Luckily, first
gear, once found, is rock solid and so we eventually begin to climb, slowly,
slowly, around one vertical turn, around another and another until we finally
make it to the top, the engine temperature gauge steadily moving upward,
quicker than we are, definitely – hearts still beating, we pull over and take
stock. Near death, to be sure.
However, not ones
to be too daunted by a mere brush with the Reaper, we continue on, finding the
downward ride a lot easier, despite the smell of burning brakes – regardless,
we roll into Kenmore on the banks of the River Tay, which feeds into a
gargantuan Loch of the same name, and we find a large pub with seats on the
grass in the sun and so a pint of the local’s finest is in order, a smoke and
calmness is restored.
No campground here
however, so we prevail upon the Tub once more, hit the side road and eight or
so miles later, roll into Aberfeldy where we eschew the packed campground in
favour of a small meadow right on the river, where we make camp and praise the
good lord, or whoever, that we’re still here. A good start, methinks, and we drink
and eat and eventually retire.
***